09.2024
Banff
and the Canadian Rockies
Welcome to Banff, gateway to the breathtaking Canadian Rockies. Banff National Park is an absolute paradise for nature lovers and adventure seekers alike. With its towering peaks, turquoise lakes, and vibrant wildlife, Banff offers a truly unforgettable hiking experience. The town of Banff is quite charming as well, offering a mix of boutique shops, cozy cafes, and delicious restaurants. Incredible vistas are everywhere - how to experience them is up to you. Whether it's hiking, biking, skiing or relaxing in a hot spring, the beauty of Banff will stay with you for a lifetime.
At a Glance
Typical Costs
Currency: Canadian Dollar (CAD)
Meals: $15-24
Beer/Wine: $8-15
Transport: $10-30
Costs are per-person averages, and converted to US Dollars for consistency.
Useful Tips
Power Outlets: Type A or Type B compatible (same as U.S.)
Type A
Type B
Local Language: English
When to Go
Banff is beautiful all year round, but it is famous for its hoards of visitors that descend on it during the summer months. If it's your first time or you're looking for a more laid-back experience, I recommend late June/early July and September/early October as the best times to visit Banff.
Golden larches cover the trails once you're above a certain elevation.
Weather
Be aware that Banff is a mountain climate - the weather can be unpredictable, especially in the winter and spring months. Snowfall can be heavy, and temperatures can drop significantly within just a few hours. It's always a good idea to check the weather forecast a few days before your planned excursion, and have a backup plan! For tips and recommendations on what to pack, check out my Packing List.
Spring (May to Jun.)
​ Temperature: Highs range from 57°F (14°C) in May to 66°F (19°C) in June.
Snowmelt: Snow begins to melt in the valley, but persists at higher elevations.
Blooming: Springtime is beautiful, with wildflowers blooming in the meadows.
Summer (Jul. to Aug.)
Temperature: Highs range from 73°F (23°C) in July to 75°F (24°C) in August.
Rainfall: Occasional showers; June and July are the rainiest months in Banff.
Hiking: Summer is a great time for hiking and exploring the beautiful landscapes.
Autumn (Sep. to Oct.)
Temperature: Highs range from 63°F (17°C) in September to 50°F (10°C) in October.
Rainfall: Drier compared to summer, with occasional snowfall at higher elevations.
Foliage: Autumn is a fantastic time to visit Banff, as the larch needles turn a golden color.
Winter (Nov. to Apr.)
Temperature: Highs range from 34°F (1°C) in Nov. to 48°F (9°C) in April.
Snowfall: Frequent and heavy snowfall, especially in the higher elevations.
Freezing: Temperatures can drop well below freezing, especially at night.
PRO TIP: Fall Colors
Mid September is the perfect time to hike amid the fall colors - if you are willing to risk some colder weather and a chance of snow! As a bonus, you'll dodge the tourist crowds.
What to Do
Moraine Lake & Larch Valley
​When it comes to nature, Moraine Lake is truly one of the wonders of the world. Vibrant turquoise waters, surrounded by snow-capped mountains and lush forests in the Valley of the Ten Peaks... it almost seems unfair that a single place should hold so much beauty.
Quick Stats (Larch Valley Hike)
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Distance: 5.8 miles (9.3 km) round-trip
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Duration: 3-4 hours round-trip
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Elevation Gain: 1,800 feet (550 m)
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Highest Elevation: 8,000 feet (2,430 m)
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Difficulty: Medium
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Parking: No (shuttles/tour operators required)
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Bathrooms: Yes
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Trash Bins: Yes
What to Expect
Getting There
As a Public Service Announcement, Parks Canada no longer allows personal vehicles to access the lake. You are now REQUIRED to book tickets on a shuttle operator or tour company. This is an unfortunate effect of the area's popularity - recent years have seen a massive increase in the number of visitors and tourists. Be sure to book your shuttle tickets well in advance (at least 2-3 months), or even earlier for peak seasons!
Starting in downtown Banff, take the Trans-Canada Highway 1 West (AB-1 W) for about 40 minutes. Take the exit for Lake Louise and turn right; follow signs for the overflow parking lot, just a few miles up the road. You'll be directed to an available parking spot, and from there you can locate your shuttle operator. Shuttles take about a half hour to reach the lake (one-way).
PRO TIP: Roam Public Transit
Definitely consider booking tickets on Roam Public Transit. Not only is this bus system is the most affordable option around, but they offer direct transport to and from downtown Banff! No car needed.
Once you arrive at Moraine Lake, you have several options.
Directly in front of you is the lake, which you can hike along the lakeshore for quite a ways. It's a peaceful and beautiful walk, with uninterrupted views of the lake (perfect for a picnic!).
To your left is the "Rockpile" - this is where the most iconic pictures are taken, with the turquoise waters perfectly framed by the dramatic backdrop of granite mountains. It's also a super quick hike, maybe 15 minutes to the top (though there are a fair amount of stairs). You may be eager to start with this one, but I recommend saving it for after you've done the Larch Valley hike. It's much better to finish with this one; you'll end with the easier hike, giving yourself plenty of time to reach the Larch Valley and return.
Ahead of you and to your right is the start of the Larch Valley hike. The trail immediately begins to climb in elevation, and doesn't stop until you've reached the top of the valley. After about 45 minutes and a dozen switchbacks zigzagging up the mountain, at last you'll reach the top, and the start of Larch Valley.
From the entrance of the valley, it's another 30-40 minutes of easy hiking through the trees, with spectacular vistas of mountain peaks in front of you. Eventually you'll reach Sentinel Pass, a steeper series of switchbacks that lead further up the mountain cliffs. Reaching the top of the pass takes another 30-45 minutes, depending on the speed of others hiking in front of you (it's a narrow and scrabbly trail). Honestly, when I did it, the views weren't much better from the top of the pass, and I was actually farther away from the larches I had specifically come to see. I would only recommend doing Sentinel Pass if you're looking for additional challenge or thrill!
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On your return, keep an eye on the time. You'll likely need to catch your return shuttle to either Lake Louise or Banff (most depart at 3-4pm), and you will definitely want to save time for the Rockpile hike. Reserve at least
PRO TIP: Rockpile Hike for Pictures!
Don't forget the Rockpile hike after you return from the larches! If you're pressed for time to catch your return shuttle, 30 minutes is the minimum time needed (round-trip). However, you'll definitely want at least an hour... it gets crowded up there, and you may have to wait to get your perfect shot.
Lake Louise & Saddleback Pass
"Turquoise waters, glacial dream... reflecting peaks, a sunlit gleam."
Lake Louise is a place of unparalleled beauty, captivating visitors with its serene vibes and awe-inspiring surroundings. Whether you're enjoying one of the many incredible hikes, kayaking on the tranquil waters, or biking around the lakeshore, guaranteed you'll be wishing you had more time in this magical place.
Quick Stats (Saddleback Pass Hike)
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Distance: 4.6 miles (7.4 km) round-trip
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Duration: 3-4 hours round-trip
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Elevation Gain: 2,000 feet (600 m)
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Highest Elevation: 7,600 feet (2,300 m)
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Difficulty: Medium
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Parking: Very limited
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Bathrooms: Yes
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Trash Bins: Yes
What to Expect
Getting There
Starting in downtown Banff, take the Trans-Canada Highway 1 West (AB-1 W) for about 40 minutes. Take the exit for Lake Louise, but this time turn left. You'll quickly arrive at Lake Louise Village, a small collection of shops, restaurants, grocery stores and accommodation. Continue straight for another 20 minutes and you'll arrive at Lake Louise.
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There is a parking lot here, but finding a spot is usually a challenge unless you are willing to arrive before sunrise. Once the lot is full, you'll be turned away. Parking is paid by plate, and is more than $36 for a daily parking pass (see the fee details here).
PRO TIP: Take a Shuttle to Lake Louise!
If you don't want to deal with the parking headache, take a shuttle! Almost all of the shuttle operators that service Moraine Lake also service Lake Louise - you can book seats in advance here.
Once you've reached the lakeshore (and managed to tear your gaze away from the mesmerizing waters), you'll find the pathway to the Saddleback Pass hike on your left. It's not super clear at first, as there are several small pathways that lead off to the left of the lake - keep your eye out for trail signs pointing to Fairview Lookout, Mount Fairview, and Saddleback Pass.
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After about a mile, you'll come to a fork in the path. Both are well marked and will lead to the top of the mountain; the path on the right is steeper, and the path on the left is easier. Pick one and take the other one on the way back if you like, turning the out-and-back route into a loop! Watch out for fallen trees - there were many freshly fallen logs we had to cross over and under, so make sure you're physically capable of handling some minor obstacle avoidance.
Spectacular views across the valley make you feel as if you've traveled into a fantasy novel
If you’ve come for the larches, now is when the adventure begins to pay off! The path winds through a forest of them, covering the mountainside in a canopy of brilliant gold. Continue for another 1.5 miles, climbing in elevation until you finally reach Saddleback Pass - a small plateau with a clearing and a trail sign. It's a perfect spot for a picnic, with the vivid colors of the larches all around you and the backdrop of Mount Temple rearing in the distance. You can choose to continue on toward Saddle Mountain, or up to the peak of Fairview Mountain (steeper and more of a scramble near the top).
Emerald Lake
If you're looking for relaxation and natural beauty, Emerald Lake is the perfect place. No struggling uphill or climbing over rocks - the entire trail runs along the shore, meaning flat, easy walking the whole way. All that's left for you is to enjoy the bird song and tranquility.
Quick Stats
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Distance: 3.2 miles (5,2 km) round-trip
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Duration: 1-1.5 hours round-trip
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Elevation Gain: ~0 (flat ground)
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Difficulty: Easy
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Parking: Yes
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Bathrooms: Yes
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Trash Bins: No (pack your trash out)
What to Expect
Getting There
Technically speaking, Emerald Lake resides in Yoho National Park, not Banff. Being a half hour drive past Lake Louise, it's an easy hike to do for a morning or half-day. Birding, hiking, and even water activities are popular here; you can even stay at the Emerald Lake Lodge, or grab lunch at the restaurant there (Cilantro).
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The walk begins at the parking lot, along a paved path to your left. You'll wind through picturesque forest, with the stunning colors of the lake peeking out among the trees. Soon the path transitions to gravel, and you'll come out of the trees to reveal breathtaking panoramas of the surrounding mountains.
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The entire hike is flat and accessible, offering countless opportunities to perfect your photography skills and find the perfect shot of lake and mountain reflection - an idyllic spot to explore with friends or just relax in solitude for awhile.
Typical Costs
Below is a breakdown of some common daily expenses you can expect as a tourist in Banff. These price estimates will vary depending on the time of year (i.e. higher prices during the summer months).
Accomodation
Budget: Hostels and guesthouses can offer basic accommodations for around $100-160 per night per person. Find affordable lodging here.
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Mid-range: Comfortable hotels with amenities like private bathrooms and Wi-Fi typically range from $160-350 per night for a double room. Find mid-range lodging here.
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Luxury: High-end lodges and boutique hotels can offer luxurious accommodations with stunning views and premium services, starting from $350-900 per night. Find luxury lodging here.​
PRO TIP: Book WAY in Advance!
Banff is extremely popular, and accommodation gets booked up months in advance. I recommend booking 6+ months in advance (especially during the summer) or you won't get your top choice place!
Food
​Local restaurants: $17-30 per person.
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Cafés and bars: $6-25 per person.
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Groceries: $20-30 per person.
Transportation
Prices will vary depending on how far you're traveling; on average, here is what you can expect:
Shuttle/bus: $15 one-way
Taxi: $50 one-way
Rental Car: $50-100 per day
Getting Around
Public Transportation
Shuttle Bus
Definitely the preferred option for transport in and around Banff. After flying into Calgary, you can take a shuttle directly from Calgary airport to Banff. There are a plethora of shuttle operators that will take you to Lake Louise and Moraine Lake, as well as other popular hiking areas in the vicinity. You can even take buses within the town of Banff itself. The best part - the shuttles are usually very affordable! The one significant downside is that you'll usually need to reserve or buy a ticket in advance, so it's not as spontaneous adventuring as a car.
Private Transportation
Taxis
Taxis are available in Banff, but they are expensive and there aren't very many of them since demand has never been very high (although that may be changing as the town's popularity continues to grow). Within the town, you can walk pretty much anywhere in 20 minutes or less; however, all of the hikes are fairly far away (typically an hour or more). In either case, a taxi isn't really optimal. However, they can be a great option in a pinch if you need a break from walking.
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Rental Cars
In years past, recommended renting a car as the best way to see Banff and the surrounding region. It provided the ultimate flexibility to explore at your own pace and create your own itinerary, especially with the roads being well maintained and rarely crowded.
However, with the recent changes to the Lake Louise/Moraine Lake parking situations, I've changed my recommendation. Since you cannot park at Moraine, and it's practically impossible to park at Louise, the easiest and most affordable option is now taking a shuttle bus - you just have to reserve a spot in advance. Or if you want to visit more than just the popular spots, you can rent a car for half the time you normally would, and take a shuttle or tour operator the other days.
Overall, I would try to avoid a rental car if you can - you won't be able to use it for many of the places and hikes you'll be wanting to go to!