09.2024
Chamonix
Jewel of the French Alps
Bienvenue à Chamonix. Nestled in the heart of the French Alps, this charming village offers the perfect blend of alpine beauty and modern luxury. And when the clouds clear, the stunning views of snow-white peaks marching into the distance is just... surreal. Just wait until you take a lift up to one of the Grand Balcons.
At a Glance
Typical Costs
Currency: Euro (EUR)
Meals: $18-28
Beer/Wine: $7-16
Transport: $5-48
Costs are per-person averages, and converted to US Dollars for consistency.
Useful Tips
Power Outlets: Type C or Type E compatible
Type C
Type E
Local Language: French
Hello: bonjour ("bon-jur")
Goodbye: au revoir ("aw-vwha")
Thank You: merci ("mer-see")
Toilet: toilette ("twa-let")
When to Go
Chamonix is beautiful all year round, with a variety of activities to accompany every season. It tends to get most crowded with visitors during both summer and winter (as a world-class skiing destination). If this is your first time here or you're looking for a more laid-back experience, I recommend early June and late September/early October as the best times to visit the Chamonix Valley.
Views of Mont Blanc along the charming streets of Chamonix Village.
Weather
Be aware that Chamonix lies in a mountain vale - the weather can be unpredictable at all times of the year. Snowfall can be heavy, and temperatures can drop significantly within just a few hours. It's always a good idea to check the weather forecast a few days before your planned excursion, and have a backup plan! For tips and recommendations on what to pack, see my Packing List.
Spring (May to Jun.)
Temperature: Average highs range from 54°F (12°C) in May to 64°F (18°C) in June.
Snowmelt: Snow begins to melt in the valley, but persists at higher elevations.
Blooming: Springtime is beautiful, with wildflowers blooming in the meadows.
Summer (Jul. to Aug.)
Temperature: Average highs range from 70°F (20°C) in July to 75°F (24°C) in August.
Rainfall: Occasional showers or thunderstorms due to the mountainous terrain.
Hiking: Summer is a great time for hiking and exploring the beautiful landscapes.
Autumn (Sep. to Nov.)
Temperature: Average highs range from 63°F (17°C) in September to 41°F (5°C) in November.
Rainfall: Drier compared to summer; occasional snowfall at higher elevations.
Foliage: Chamonix is beautiful in fall, with golden larches and deep reds in groundcover brush.
Winter (Dec. to Apr.)
Temperature: Average highs range from 39°F (4°C) in December to 46°F (8°C) in April.
Snowfall: Frequent and heavy snowfall, especially in the higher elevations.
Ice: Temperatures can drop well below freezing, especially at night.
PRO TIP: Fall Colors
Late September to early October is the perfect time to hike amid the fall colors. There is a greater chance of rain and clouds, but less risk of snow until November. As a bonus, you'll dodge the tourist crowds.
What to Do
Grand Balcon Sud
The views from the Grand Balcon Sud feels like a holy experience. Few places in the world provide you with such breathtaking, panoramic views in all directions... and with such minimal physical exertion on your part as an added bonus! Just hop in a lift and watch the world drop away below, as you ascend above the clouds to jagged snow-capped peaks all around you.
Quick Stats (Planpraz Lift to Flégère Lift)
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Distance: 3.4 miles (5.4 km) One-way
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Duration: 1.5-2 hours One way
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Elevation Gain: 1,600 feet (500 m)
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Highest Elevation: 6,800 feet (2,100 m)
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Difficulty: Easy
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Parking: No
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Bathrooms: Yes
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Trash Bins: Yes
What to Expect
Getting There
Starting from the village center, make your way toward the Planpraz Gondola Lift. If you aren't using Google Maps, look for either Route de la Roumnaz or Rue la Mollard and follow the streets uphill. After about 10 minutes, you'll reach the lift. You now have two options: 1) Stand in line and purchase a fairly-expensive lift-ticket package (depending on how many times you want to take the lift), or 2) head off to the side and start hiking up on foot.
Normally, I'm all in for taking the scenic route and/or challenging myself on a hike, butttt... it's a pretty steep trail. It winds back and forth in tight switchbacks, typically taking you over an hour to get all the way to the top where the lift arrives. Not to mention you'll be hiking right beneath the gondolas themselves the whole way, as if the builders wanted to remind you of your poor decision every 30 seconds. If you couldn't tell, I opted to take the lift.
PRO TIP: Lift Schedules
Keep in mind that the lifts only run from 9am to 4:45pm. Check out exact details here. So if you were thinking of catching a sunset (or sunrise) from the top, at least one leg of the journey will be on foot!
The Planplaz gondolas are spacious, glass-walled and stable. They quickly and smoothly whisk you up the mountainside. In less than a minute, you're looking down on the Chamonix Valley... and the majesty of the vale truly begins to show itself.
Clouds rolling off the Mont Blanc massif
PRO TIP: Lunch on Top of the World
Planpraz is known as the "mid-level" lift, because from here you can take the Brévent Cable Car up to Brévent Summit. The views are truly spectacular, and you can spoil yourself with lunch or drinks at Le Panoramique, an open-air, glass-walled restaurant perched on the very summit!
Thick cloud cover can make for a terrifying cable car ride!
A short 10-minute ride later, you'll arrive at the top of Planpraz. There are many hikes you can take from here, but for the Grand Balcon Sud you will want to exit the lift station and hike up a short hill with breathtaking panoramas. Pause to collect your jaw from the ground, then follow signs for "Flégère" towards your right. If you aren't sure you're on the correct trail, don't panic! As long as you are walking to the RIGHT from Planpraz, you are essentially following the Chamonix Valley; the trails will intersect with each other at multiple points along the way, and they will have signs indicating which trail you're on. If you happened to start or take a different trail, just hop onto the "Flégère" trail at your next opportunity.
The path is fairly easy, with mild uphill and downhill. However, there is one bit of challenging elevation gain towards the end of the path - a steep rock staircase. The path provides iron railings to help pull yourself up, but it can be a workout if you're not prepared for it!
Just a few stairs... a mildly challenging but fun addition to the hike.
Just another 20-30 minutes and you'll arrive at Le Flégère lift. If you didn't stop for lunch or snacks back at Planpraz or Le Brévent, you'll have another excellent chance here! (I love the French). L'Adret offers a variety of food and drink options for you to choose from while you rest your feet and take in the views one more time. At this point you can choose to ride Flégère down to the village, or make your way back to Planpraz.
PRO TIP: Paraglide Down!
If you want more adrenaline in your day, do this hike in REVERSE (La Flégère to Planpraz) and skip the lift down - FLY down instead! Planpraz is a popular jump-off spot for parapenters (paragliders).
Col de Balme
Stretching across the border between France and Switzerland, the Col de Balme is an easy walk, perfect for an afternoon picnic. The French and Swiss Alps rear up all around you - Mont Blanc dominates the southern horizon; Swiss Alps to the north, including the iconic Jungfrau; and the Aiguille Rouges to the east makes for a dramatic backdrop with its jagged peaks. Meanwhile the the valley floor meanders far below, offering bird's-eye views of the Chamonix valley and surrounding villages.
Quick Stats (from Charmillon lift)
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Distance: 2.4 miles (3.8 km) round-trip
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Duration: 1-2 hours round-trip
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Elevation Gain: 1,150 feet (350 m)
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Highest Elevation: 7,200 feet (2,200 m)
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Toilets: Yes (both Charmillon & Le Tour lift stations)
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Difficulty: Medium
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Parking: Limited
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Bathrooms: Yes
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Trash Bins: Yes
What to Expect
Getting There
From Chamonix village, you'll want to take the Line #2 or V2 bus to Le Tour (bus tickets are pretty cheap, and if you have purchased a lift pass, the bus tickets are included).
PRO TIP: Bus Tickets
Buses run every 30 minutes, all year round, every day from 5:40am to 8:14pm, except for Sundays and holidays. Check out detailed bus ticket prices and schedules here.
From Le Tour, take the Charamillon gondola, then Les Autannes chairlift to the top station. Follow the well-marked trail (signed "Col de Balme") - you'll reach the “Refuge du Col de Balme” in about 20-30 minutes. This is essentially a mountain hostel, but even if you're not spending the night here you can stop and admire the stunning vistas.
Not a bad spot to admire the views...
Mer De Glace - Glacial Caves
The Mer de Glace, or "Sea of Ice," is one of the most magnificent glaciers located in the French Alps. The largest glacier in France, it stretches over four miles (seven kilometers) long and reaches depths of over 600 feet (200 meters). Every year, new tunnels and caves are carved into the ice, as the glacier continues its endless procession down the valley.
Quick Stats
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Duration: 2-2.5 hours round-trip
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Elevation Gain: ~440 steps
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Difficulty: Easy
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Parking: No
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Bathrooms: Yes
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Trash Bins: Yes
What to Expect
Getting There
To reach the Mer de Glace from Chamonix, you will need to take the Montenvers Train from Montenvers station, located next to the main station in Chamonix. Here you can purchase ticket packages for both the train ride to the Mer de Glace and the gondola down to the ice cave (departs from the Mer de Glace). The train, an historic cogwheel railway built in 1909, is quite charming, taking you on a 20-minute ride through tranquil forests and mountain vistas, until you arrive at Montenvers station.
The Montenvers Train is quite popular - get in line early!
While you're here at the station, pause to enjoy the magnificent views of the glacier and surrounding mountains. There is a cafe and restaurant inside (with plenty of bench seating), perfect for relaxing or reenergizing yourself before your descent into the caves.
PRO TIP: Get in Line Early
The line to board the ice caves gondola can get very long, very fast. It is also subject to the whims of nature - to much wind and the gondola will temporarily shut down. Be sure to allow plenty of time!
Once you're ready, get in line for the gondola that takes you down towards the ice cave. After a brief ride, you'll arrive at a series of steel-grated steps - roughly 600 or so to the bottom, where the ice caves sit. The stairs aren't too steep, but they can be slippery (especially the metal railings). Take your time! The steps should take about 15 minutes to get down, and a bit more to make the return journey back up.
As a heads up, the Mer de Glace and the Ice Caves are a very popular activity in Chamonix - I highly recommend booking in advance during peak season, especially to get the times you want!
The last train heads back down to Chamonix village at 5pm, so be sure to allow plenty of time for your excursion. It's also a good idea to check the website, since both the Montenvers Train and the ice cave have seasonal operating hours.
Typical Costs
Below is a breakdown of some of the typical daily expenses you can expect as a tourist. These price estimates will vary depending on the time of year (i.e. higher prices during the summer months).
Accomodation
Budget: Hostels and guesthouses can offer basic accommodations for around $50-120 per night per person. Find affordable lodging here.
Mid-range: Comfortable hotels with amenities like private bathrooms typically range from $120-200 per night for a double room. Find mid-range lodging here.
Luxury: High-end lodges and boutique hotels can offer luxurious accommodations with stunning views and premium services, starting from $200-400 per night. Find luxury lodging here.
Food
Local restaurants: $16-30 per person.
Cafés and bars: $6-20 per person.
Groceries: $12-20 per person.
Transportation
Prices will vary depending on how far you're traveling; on average, here is what you can expect:
Bus: $2-5 one-way
Train: $20-45 one-way
Taxi: $15-30 one-way
Rental Car: $50-70 per day
Getting Around
Public Transportation
Bus
There are several convenient transport options to get to Chamonix. If you're flying in, the closest airport is Geneva International Airport (GVA) in Switzerland, about 100km away. From GVA you can take a direct shuttle from the airport to Chamonix Village - I like using Omio to book my tickets. These buses tend to be one of the cheapest forms of getting around, and are more environmentally friendly than flying or driving.
PRO TIP: FREE Bus Passes!
Chamonix also has a "FREE" bus system, the Carte d'hote (Guest Card). These temporary bus passes are included with your accommodation rental and the network connects Chamonix with the other nearby villages and ski resorts.
Train
Traveling to Chamonix by train requires slightly more effort than taking the bus - although it does offer the least impact on the environment! You will need to change trains a few times along the way, but at least the main train station sits right in the center of town when you arrive. One advantage over buses is that you are allowed to carry more luggage without additional charges.
Private Transportation
Taxis
Taxis are available, although you may need to book in advance during peak seasons. Uber is also available in the village (provided you have working internet).
Rental Cars
A rental car provides the most flexibility to explore at your own pace and create your own itinerary, instead of being subject to the whims of train and bus schedules. However, the roads around Chamonix can be narrow and winding (it is a mountain vale, after all), and parking is definitely a concern if you go during the peak tourism months. Overall, I recommend avoiding a rental car if you can - you'll skip a lot of unnecessary stress!