09.2024
Theth
and the Albanian Alps
Welcome to Theth, a beautiful mountain village nestled deep in the Albanian Alps.
Wake up surrounded by dramatic peaks of the Accursed Mountains, looking out across green fields and the sound of the river meandering through the valley. You'll likely encounter little herds of curious sheep, roaming freely along the path.
At a Glance
Typical Costs
Currency: Albanian Lek (ALL)
Meals: $4-10
Beer/Wine: $2-5
Transport: $12-20
Costs are per-person averages, and converted to US Dollars for consistency.
Useful Tips
Power Outlets: Type C or Type F compatible
Type C
Type F
Local Language: Albanian
Hello: Përshëndetje ("per-shen-det-ye")
Goodbye: tung ("toong")
Thank You: Faleminderit ("Fa-lay-min-der-it")
Bathroom: banjo ("ban-yo")
When to Go
Theth is truly beautiful all year round. But if it's your first time or you're looking for a more laid-back experience, you'll probably want to avoid the crowds and heat (and mosquitos!) during summer, and the cold and snow of winter. I recommend the shoulder seasons of late May/early June and September/early October as the best times to visit Theth. Also note that during the winter months, many businesses close down, making it difficult to get around or find a place to stay.
The stunning Albanian Alps in all their glory.
Weather
Be aware that Theth is a mountain climate - the weather can be unpredictable, especially in the winter and spring months. Snowfall can be heavy, and temperatures can drop significantly. It's always a good idea to check the weather forecast a few days before your planned excursion, and have a backup plan! For tips and recommendations on what to pack, see my Packing List.
Spring (Mar. to May)
Temperature: Highs range from 41°F (5°C) in March to 54°F (12°C) in May.
Snowmelt: Snow begins to melt in the valley, but can persist at higher elevations.
Blooming: Springtime is beautiful, with wildflowers blooming in the meadows.
Summer (Jun. to Aug.)
Temperature: Highs range from 59°F (15°C) in June to 85°F (29°C) in August.
Rainfall: Occasional brief showers, but generally drier than winter and spring.
Hiking: Summer is a great time for hiking and exploring the beautiful landscapes.
Autumn (Sep. to Nov.)
Temperature: Highs range from 59°F (15°C) in September to 41°F (5°C) in November.
Rainfall: Increases compared to summer, with occasional snowfall in the higher elevations.
Foliage: Autumn is a fantastic time to visit Theth, with the leaves changing color in the forests.
Winter (Dec. to Feb.)
Temperature: Highs range from 33°F (1°C) in December to 41°F (5°C) in February.
Snowfall: Frequent and heavy snowfall, especially in the higher elevations.
Freezing: Temperatures can drop well below freezing, especially at night.
PRO TIP: Fall Colors
Mid October is the perfect time to hike amid the fall colors - if you are willing to risk some colder weather and a chance of snow! As a bonus, you'll dodge the tourist crowds.
What to Do
Blue Eye Hike
"Syri i Kaltër" - meaning "Blue Eye" in Albanian, is a stunning natural spring at the heart of the Thethi Valley. The journey to reach the water offers a breathtaking hike through rugged mountains and lush forests. When you finally get to see the crystal-clear waters up close, try to look at them from different heights and angles - the water changes color depending on the light and mineral content!
Quick Stats
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Distance: 11 miles (18 km) round-trip
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Duration: 5-7 hours round-trip
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Elevation Gain: 1,400 feet (400 m)
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Highest Elevation: 3,300 feet (1,000 m)
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Difficulty: Easy to Medium
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Parking: Yes
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Bathrooms: Yes
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Trash Bins: No (pack your trash)
What to Expect
PRO TIP: Which Blue Eye?
During your planning, be careful not to mix this Blue Eye with the OTHER “Syri i Kaltër”, the similarly-named famous natural spring in southern Albania, near Sarandë.
Getting There
The trail to the Blue Eye is relatively easy to find - starting from Theth Village, follow the main path down the valley that winds along the Shala River. After 15-20 minutes you'll start to climb up the mountain. There will be multiple paths that branch off towards various lodgings or other hikes (such as the Grunas Waterfall, listed below). In general, just stay to the right and keep following the river.
Eventually you'll come to a very old (and very sketchy-looking) wooden bridge. If you're feeling daring, hold your breath and cross over the top of it. The safer and easier alternative is to just walk down into the riverbed and avoid the bridge entirely!
If you don't feel like trusting these old wooden beams, you can easily cross the riverbed on foot.
You'll continue on the path for another hour or so, eventually descending back down to the river. You'll cross a paved bridge (much sturdier-looking, thankfully) and follow the road to your left for another half-hour, passing a few lodging places and even a local beekeeper selling honey. Once you've passed the newly-built (and perfectly located) Monark Villas, you're getting close!
The Monark Villas offer a striking contrast to the surrounding greenery.
A local beekeeper sells little jars of fresh honey if you're looking for a snack!
You'll reach a parking lot located next to a wide, shallow river, with a restaurant/cafe perched on the other side (Lulash Zelna). There are some old wooden bridges above the river. Don't be fooled! some tourists stop here thinking this is the Blue Eye, but you haven't reached it yet. Follow the trail that continues on the right side of the parking lot - there is one final ascent (about 30-40 minutes) and you will arrive at your well-earned destination. You can (and many people do) swim there, but be prepared for an icy plunge - the waters are VERY cold, usually around 43°F (6°C).
PRO TIP: Taxis
If you don't feel like walking all the way back, you can pick up a taxi from this parking lot. Costs are typically 10 euro per person to go back into Thethi village.
The stunning colors of the Blue Eye.
Grunas (Theth) Waterfall Hike
This cascading beauty is nestled amidst rugged crags of rock and lush greenery, falling nearly 100 feet (30m) to splash into an icy pool below. You'll pass traditional Albanian villages and crystal-clear streams along the path, making this hike a wonderful way to spend the morning or afternoon. If you're pressed for time, or just feel like adding an extra challenge, you can add this as a stop on the way to the Blue Eye!
Quick Stats
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Distance: 4 miles (6.5 km) round-trip
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Duration: 1.5-2 hours round-trip
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Elevation Gain: 1,000 feet (300 m)
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Highest Elevation: 2,800 feet (850 m)
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Difficulty: Easy
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Parking: Yes
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Bathrooms: No
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Trash Bins: No
What to Expect
Getting There
The hike for the Grunas Waterfall starts in the same place as the Blue Eye hike - you'll follow the lone gravel path down the valley, winding along the Shala River. As you start to climb up the mountain, you'll see a narrow, red foot bridge. Cross the bridge and follow the trail to the left, up into the mountain. Look carefully and you should see red and white striped markers on the trees and rocks along the trail. Some of the markers are a bit faded, and there are a handful of trails that wind their way up the mountain. The good news is that all of the diverging paths end up leading to the waterfall! We took the main trail, which crosses a fairly wide and rocky stream - watch your footing! From there, the final 10 minutes of the trail is a bit steeper, but once you make it to the top, the view of the falls is spectacular.
The hidden oasis of the Grunas Waterfall.
Zipline down the Valley (Thethi Zipline)
Experience the beauty of the Albanian Alps from an entirely different perspective! This zipline course provides a burst of adrenaline and excitement, the perfect compliment to stunning panoramic views of the Thethi Valley below. You'll zip past rugged peaks and fly over lush forests and rivers on your race down the mountain to the village below.
Quick Stats
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Distance: 4,100 feet (1,250 m) one-way
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Highest Elevation: 3,000 feet (900 m)
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Price: $20 per person
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Parking: Yes (parking lot nearby)
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Bathrooms: Yes
What to Expect
Thethi Zipline is a simple setup - you walk inside at ground level, pay, and the guides will provide all the needed gear. Then you go upstairs to the "balcony", get hooked in, and you're off! No wait times, no reservations needed, and the guides are quick, friendly and efficient.
There are two ziplines, side by side so that you can race together with a friend. The ride will last just a couple minutes, ending on a platform just across from the little bridge leading into Thethi Village. This is hands down the most exciting way to view the natural beauty you came here to see!
Getting There
The zipline building is a modern, wooden structure located halfway up the side of the mountain, on your way to/from Shkodër. It's a good 20-minute walk uphill, and you'll have to walk along the side of the narrow (two-way) road. Or it's a five-minute taxi/drive.
The good news is that if you left backpacks or other items up at the top, the company will drive you back up the hill (free of charge) so you can collect your things. I recommend just taking everything with you on the zipline down, so that you don't need to return at all - just head into the village for lunch or find a new trail to hike!
Typical Costs
The cost of living in Albania is generally lower than many Western countries. Below is a breakdown of some common daily expenses you can expect as a tourist. These price estimates will vary depending on the time of year (i.e. higher prices during the summer months).
Accomodation
Budget: Hostels and guesthouses can offer basic accommodations for around $10-20 per night per person. Find affordable lodging here.
Mid-range: Comfortable hotels with amenities like private bathrooms and Wi-Fi typically range from $30-50 per night for a double room. Find mid-range lodging here.
Luxury: High-end lodges and boutique hotels can offer luxurious accommodations with stunning views and premium services, starting from $70-100 per night. Find luxury lodging here.
PRO TIP: Book in Advance
Theth is a small village with limited accommodation. Book at least a few weeks to a month in advance (especially during the summer) or you might not have a place to stay when you get there!
PRO TIP: Cash
Be aware that some hotels in Albania require you to pay in CASH. Make sure to message the hotel in advance so you are prepared with the correct form of payment.
Food
Local restaurants: $5-10 per person.
Cafés and bars: $3-5 per person.
Groceries: $1-10 per person.
PRO TIP: Drinking Water
I recommend NOT drinking the tap water from your hotel. While in some places it may be safe, the quality is inconsistent. I was advised to buy bottled water instead.
Transportation
Prices will vary depending on how far you're traveling; on average, here is what you can expect:
Furgon (Mini-Bus): $12 one-way
Taxi: $20 one-way
Rental Car: $35-50 per day
Getting Around
Public Transportation
Furgons (Mini-buses)
These 10-12 seater buses are by far the most common (and sometimes the only) form of public transport in Albania. They are very affordable and quite comfortable, usually no more than 12 euros for several hours' journey. The furgons are popular with Albanians as well, so you'll have a chance to meet some locals along the journey. They are great for traveling between towns and cities (such as between Tirana, Shkodër and Theth). You will usually have to go to designated pickup spots to find one, or ask your hotel to make arrangements for one to pick you up.
Note that the furgons rarely stick to their posted schedules; drivers will often wait for the bus to completely fill up with passengers before departing. They also drop off passengers pretty much anywhere they want. Be sure to plan in extra travel time if you're on a tight schedule!
Private Transportation
Taxis
Taxis are surprisingly available, even in more remote areas such as Theth. You'll tend to find them clustered near the more tourist-focused locations, such as Thethi Village or the parking lot by the Blue Eye. They are relatively expensive compared to the furgons or a rental car, but they can be a great option in a pinch if you need a break from walking or hiking.
Rental Cars
Many tourists are fans of renting a car when they travel - it provides the ultimate flexibility to explore at your own pace and create your own itinerary. You'll be able to take more scenic drives and reach locations much farther off the beaten path.
However, be warned that the roads around Theth are not for the faint of heart! Although the main road between Shkodër and Theth was recently paved, all other roads in the valley are dirt or gravel, making them tricky to navigate during wet weather. Furthermore, the roads are narrow, and allow both directions of traffic... meaning if you drive around a corner and find yourself face-to-face with a large construction truck (very common) you'll need to quickly squeeeeze to the edge of the road to be able to pass them... barely. Overall, it's doable if you are a confident driver, but we recommend avoiding a rental car if you can - you'll skip a lot of unnecessary stress!